Modern Codfish Viana: A Portuguese Classic Reimagined

It's time to take another old recipe and adapt it to our modern needs and ways of cooking. This time, my exploration led me to a remarkable Portuguese recipe, Bacalhau à Moda de Viana, which I discovered in an old cookbook that I bought during my travels in Lisbon.

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I will not keep you too much with the introductions. I will just tell you this. I strived to remain true to the essence of the original dish while making it accessible for today's kitchen. This being said, I present to you my modern version of Bacalhau à Moda de Viana that marries tradition with contemporary flair.

Instructions:

• ‍Polenta Crisps: Mix 75g of cornmeal with 300ml of water, a tablespoon of butter, and half a teaspoon of salt to make polenta.

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• Spread the polenta between two sheets of baking paper in a tray, rolling it out thinly with a rolling pin. Once cooled, brush with olive oil, and sprinkle with garlic and spicy smoked paprika.

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• Bake at 200°C (392°F) for 30-40 minutes until crispy.

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• Roasted Cabbage: Slice the cabbage into 1-2 cm rounds, discarding any wilted layers but keeping the core intact. Arrange on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, and season well with salt and pepper.

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• Roast at 180°C (356°F) for 30-40 minutes until the cabbage is tender and the edges are charred. Let it rest before serving.‍
• Potatoes: Cut the potatoes into 1 cm thick rounds, coat with olive oil, and bake on a parchment-lined sheet at 200°C (392°F) with ventilation for 30-40 minutes, flipping halfway through, until golden.

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• Caramelized Onions: Thinly slice 2 onions using a mandoline. In a skillet, heat a tablespoon of olive oil, add the onions, smoked paprika, salt, and a tablespoon of sugar.

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• Sauté until soft, then add a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar, mix, and remove from heat.‍
• Cod Fillets: Season the cod with sea salt, pepper, and olive oil. Cook sous-vide at 60°C (140°F) for about 20 minutes.

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• Before serving, pan-sear quickly to golden the edges.‍
• Emulsion: Blend the juice of half a lemon with an equal amount of olive oil using an immersion blender.
• To serve, arrange the components beautifully on a plate, garnishing with fresh herbs and optional citrus zest for a burst of freshness.

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The Original Bacalhau à Moda de Viana

For those curious about the traditional recipe, it features codfish steaks wrapped in savoy cabbage and baked, accompanied by boiled potatoes and sautéed onions, all drizzled with warm olive oil. This method highlights the deep-rooted flavors of Portuguese cuisine. Here is what the book states:

Ingredients:

• Codfish
• Savoy cabbage
• Potatoes
• Onions
• Olive oil
• Cornbread (broa)

Instructions:

1. Soak codfish steaks in water for 24 hours, changing the water occasionally. After soaking, do not rinse thoroughly.
2. Boil savoy cabbage leaves until tender, then cool in cold water.
3. Wrap each codfish steak with cabbage leaves, securing with thick thread, and bake until the cabbage is dry.
4. Sauté onion slices in olive oil until tender. Serve the codfish and potatoes with sautéed onions and drizzle with warm olive oil. Enjoy with cornbread on the side.

Adapting Tradition: Innovations in Bacalhau à Moda de Viana

In reimagining Bacalhau à Moda de Viana for the contemporary kitchen, my goal was to preserve the soul of this storied dish while streamlining the preparation process and making use of modern cooking techniques and appliances. Here are the modifications I made and the rationale behind each:

• Polenta Crisps Instead of Cornbread (Broa): Traditional Bacalhau à Moda de Viana is served with cornbread on the side. I opted for polenta crisps as a nod to the cornbread, aiming for a lighter, crispier texture that adds an engaging contrast to the dish. This change also simplifies preparation, making it accessible for home cooks who might not have the time or resources to bake cornbread.
• Roasted Cabbage and Potatoes: By roasting the cabbage and potatoes instead of boiling them, I wanted to introduce a depth of flavor and texture that only high-heat roasting can achieve. This method enhances the natural sweetness of the vegetables, offering a richer taste profile and a delightful char that complements the cod.
• Sous-Vide Cod for Precision Cooking: Cooking the cod sous-vide allows for unparalleled control over the cooking temperature, ensuring that the fish is perfectly cooked to its most tender and moist state. While this method diverges from the traditional baking or pan-searing, it aligns with the modern pursuit of culinary excellence and precision.
• Caramelized Onions with Balsamic Vinegar: The addition of balsamic vinegar to the caramelized onions introduces a subtle acidity and complexity, brightening the overall flavors of the dish. This small tweak adds a contemporary touch to the traditional sautéed onions, elevating the dish with minimal effort.
• Emulsion of Lemon and Olive Oil: Instead of simply drizzling warm olive oil over the dish, I chose to create an emulsion with lemon juice and olive oil. This emulsified sauce brings a refreshing zest and silky texture, tying all the components together harmoniously.

Each modification was made with careful consideration to both honor the essence of the original recipe and to adapt it to the tastes and techniques of today's kitchen. The result is a dish that respects its origins while offering a fresh, modern culinary experience.

Delving into Bacalhau à Moda de Viana

If you are curious about this recipe's history, let me tell you that Bacalhau à Moda de Viana hails from Viana do Castelo, nestled on Portugal's coast, where the sea's bounty meets culinary ingenuity. This dish is a tribute to the town's storied history with cod, a fish that sailed into the heart of Portuguese cuisine thanks to explorers like João Álvares Fagundes, who ventured to Newfoundland's rich fishing grounds. Cod became a staple on long voyages for its durability and ease of preservation.

Today, Viana do Castelo continues to celebrate this versatile fish, with each kitchen adding its unique touch to beloved recipes. Among these, the roasted cod wrapped in cabbage and served with cornbread stands out, showcasing the simple yet profound flavors of the region.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

To further enrich your culinary experience, here are some FAQs about Bacalhau à Moda de Viana and its

Q: Can I use another type of fish for Bacalhau à Moda de Viana if I can't find fresh cod?

A: Yes, while cod is traditional, you can substitute other firm white fish such as haddock, pollock, or halibut. The key is to choose a fish that can hold its shape and texture through the cooking process.

Q: Is there a vegetarian option for Bacalhau à Moda de Viana?

A: For a vegetarian twist, you could replace the cod with thick slices of portobello mushrooms or cauliflower steaks. These alternatives would nicely absorb the flavors of the olive oil and seasonings while maintaining a hearty presence in the dish.

Q: How can I make this recipe if I don't have a sous-vide machine?

A: If you don't have a sous-vide machine, you can pan-sear the cod fillets in olive oil over medium-high heat until golden and cooked through, typically 3-4 minutes per side, depending on thickness. This method won't yield the exact texture as sous-vide but will still be delicious.

Q: How do I store leftovers of Bacalhau à Moda de Viana?

A: Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to two days. To reheat, gently warm in the oven or on the stovetop until heated through. Be mindful not to overcook the fish when reheating to maintain its moisture.

Conclusion

Bacalhau à Moda de Viana, with its rich flavors and hearty ingredients, stands as a testament to the timeless allure of Portuguese cuisine. By adapting this traditional recipe to our modern kitchens, we bridge the past and present, offering a dish that respects its origins while embracing the convenience and tastes of today.

Whether you're drawn to the authenticity of the original or the freshness of the modern adaptation, this dish promises a culinary journey through the heart of Portugal. And remember, whether using the entirety of the dough for dumplings or saving half for another day, the essence of cooking is in the joy it brings, both in preparation and sharing.